• Follow us on Twitter @buckeyeplanet and @bp_recruiting, like us on Facebook! Enjoy a post or article, recommend it to others! BP is only as strong as its community, and we only promote by word of mouth, so share away!
  • Consider registering! Fewer and higher quality ads, no emails you don't want, access to all the forums, download game torrents, private messages, polls, Sportsbook, etc. Even if you just want to lurk, there are a lot of good reasons to register!

Home Repairs/HoneyDo List/Advice & Tips/etc.

Ok, now that college FB is over for all intents and purposes until the bowls, it is time to get back to working on different projects. I have two fireplaces to work on, trim to finish in various areas from other projects, a kitchen that is in process, and an office to paint and finish.

Damn, I am tired already.....
 
Upvote 0
Okay so I am starting a DIY Desk Building Project this weekend. I currently have a glass Lshape desk that I hate because 1) it's glass and 2) I have three 24" monitors that I work on and I can only fit two per side so I have to turn 90degrees all day and it's a pain. So a cost efficient big sturdy desk is what I needed. I browsed around for DIY desk ideas and decided to just take a solid wood blank 80x36 door, mount some legs on it, stain and finish it, drill a couple grommet holes, mount a large surge protector, and then tack on some cable management racks and call it a day. All in all for materials I've spent about $150 bucks tops.

Alright so I got most everything I need and plan on starting this weekend. The problem I have run into is that the Galant Legs from IKEA that I ordered are designed to attach to the Galant Desk Frame (that I'm not using). I'm trying to think of the best way to mount these legs to the bottom of the door without going through the top of the desk.

Here is what the leg looks like....



I'm thinking I could get 5" x 5" square pieces of wood (Oak?) and attach them to the top of the legs and sink the top down into the wood so that it's flush. Then I can just screw each corner of the wood up into the bottom of the door.

Do you think that would be sufficient? Or if anyone has any other ideas i'm all ears.
 
Upvote 0
Okay so I am starting a DIY Desk Building Project this weekend. I currently have a glass Lshape desk that I hate because 1) it's glass and 2) I have three 24" monitors that I work on and I can only fit two per side so I have to turn 90degrees all day and it's a pain. So a cost efficient big sturdy desk is what I needed. I browsed around for DIY desk ideas and decided to just take a solid wood blank 80x36 door, mount some legs on it, stain and finish it, drill a couple grommet holes, mount a large surge protector, and then tack on some cable management racks and call it a day. All in all for materials I've spent about $150 bucks tops.

Alright so I got most everything I need and plan on starting this weekend. The problem I have run into is that the Galant Legs from IKEA that I ordered are designed to attach to the Galant Desk Frame (that I'm not using). I'm trying to think of the best way to mount these legs to the bottom of the door without going through the top of the desk.

Here is what the leg looks like....



I'm thinking I could get 5" x 5" square pieces of wood (Oak?) and attach them to the top of the legs and sink the top down into the wood so that it's flush. Then I can just screw each corner of the wood up into the bottom of the door.

Do you think that would be sufficient? Or if anyone has any other ideas i'm all ears.

You could drill pocket holes and screw the legs in from the bottom. Here's a link. http://www.woodsmith.com/files/issues/178/pocket-hole-joinery.pdf A little more complex than what you described, but probably more stable.
 
Upvote 0
Well damn, looks like I'm buying a new vacuum cleaner. I was giving the thing a thorough cleaning yesterday, including taking apart the central canister and cleaning its parts since there was a bunch of dust and dirt buildup that I couldn't get to otherwise (bagless upright). Well, the screws holding the top of the canister to the filter housing area were super corroded and recessed so I couldn't see them well, even using my iPhone light and camera, and by the time I got the last problem screw out, that one's grip on the head was almost stripped away. I went to put the thing back together a bit ago and realized after I got all the screws back in on the top that I forgot to put one of the middle pieces of the canister back in. Wonderful. I loosen all the screws again...except the problem screw from yesterday. Well now that they've all soaked in some peroxide to get rid of the crud, I can see that putting it back in did the head in, and it is stripped to the point of being done for. Wonderful. I may see how well it works without the cone in the middle, because this is not a month I was planning on an extra purchase like that. The screws are also tiny along with being recessed, so I don't think a screw extractor kit would work on them. Recessed screws are horrible.

It was a cheaper Hoover Walmart one, so not like I voided a Dyson warranty or anything (its at least 3 years old anyway, well past warranty coverage), just annoyed it happened now.
 
Upvote 0
Meh, vacuums are thankfully resilient machines and I think without the central cone you should be OK for awhile, certainly a month I'd imagine.


I have an old school, late 60's stone fireplace, floor to ceiling. My issue is the wife wants a wrap around mantle, no problem, but I'm trying to think of the best way to make it flush? Anyone ever tackled that or have any ideas....I was thinking of doing almost like a foam insert for the gaps that I can still use a wood veneer over to cover, but don't think that's the most stable of ideas.
 
Upvote 0
Back
Top