Home Repairs/HoneyDo List/Advice & Tips/etc.

[Mac]

For now - plant some grass. I know we're a little late for that, but I'm fine with spotty results the summer and re-seeding in the fall.

We also need to move some earth around - we have some drainage problems on the low end of the yard (on the right) that used to be compounded by all the stuff we cleared out, including the aforementioned "organic garden".

Part of the goal was to reclaim some back yard for when we have kids. I wanted to have enough yard where you could play catch, kick a soccer ball around or play some wiffle ball. I think this gets us there, so I'm happy so far.

Makes a lot of sense. Shouldn't be too hard to grow grass there now. Relatively small area. Just water it daily for a while until the grass roots take hold. Still have some cooler nights too.

Hard to tell is that concrete or wood in front of the back door? You've got a good area for something like a stone patio. Would give you a nice "hangout" area without eating too much of the yard for the future.

Regardless, looks like you've done a good job, and a lot of hard work!

 

[jlb1705]

Makes a lot of sense. Shouldn't be too hard to grow grass there now. Relatively small area. Just water it daily for a while until the grass roots take hold. Still have some cooler nights too.

Hard to tell is that concrete or wood in front of the back door? You've got a good area for something like a stone patio. Would give you a nice "hangout" area without eating too much of the yard for the future.

Regardless, looks like you've done a good job, and a lot of hard work!

The back door opens to the concrete patio. The concrete extents to the right in the photo. The remainder of the wood deck is a step up to the immediate left of the concrete patio and the door.

The concrete is original to the house (1968) and doesn't have a single crack in it. I wouldn't mind keeping it as long as it's not sloping toward the foundation. I'm wondering if we can get it raised given the way it has shifted. It hasn't actually sunk, rather the the far edge was lifted by the roots of the tree we had removed. The edge of the pad adjacent to the foundation seems to be at or very near to its original level - the inward slope is the result of the 4-inch lift by the tree roots. I also wonder how much that might sink back down as those roots deteriorate over time.

 

[BUCKYLE]

If you get a 20lb sledge, dig out around the post, and give it some solid whacks right above the concrete, there's a good chance you can slide the post out without fucking with the concrete. Or you could dig down a bit and take a saw to the post, then just backfill with dirt.

Also, any farm with horses will usually sell/give away manure. It's fairly inexpensive and it makes grass grow better than any fertilizer I've ever used.

 

[jlb1705]

If you get a 20lb sledge, dig out around the post, and give it some solid whacks right above the concrete, there's a good chance you can slide the post out without fucking with the concrete. Or you could dig down a bit and take a saw to the post, then just backfill with dirt.

Also, any farm with horses will usually sell/give away manure. It's fairly inexpensive and it makes grass grow better than any fertilizer I've ever used.

The sledgehammer method is what I used to get the others. The problem is the roots give me zero room to dig to either saw off the post or bust the concrete. I also tried using my wrecking bar like a chisel on the small area of concrete I could get at, but no luck so far.

Also, having been a 4-H/FFA kid, I have no problem with putting down some manure. The real dealbreaker on that is not wanting to haul it away in the trunk of my Chevy Cavalier.

 

[Mac]

The sledgehammer method is what I used to get the others. The problem is the roots give me zero room to dig to either saw off the post or bust the concrete. I also tried using my wrecking bar like a chisel on the small area of concrete I could get at, but no luck so far.

Also, having been a 4-H/FFA kid, I have no problem with putting down some manure. The real dealbreaker on that is not wanting to haul it away in the trunk of my Chevy Cavalier.

That'd be a sight to see!

 

[Saw31]

The sledgehammer method is what I used to get the others. The problem is the roots give me zero room to dig to either saw off the post or bust the concrete. I also tried using my wrecking bar like a chisel on the small area of concrete I could get at, but no luck so far.

Also, having been a 4-H/FFA kid, I have no problem with putting down some manure. The real dealbreaker on that is not wanting to haul it away in the trunk of my Chevy Cavalier.

Jesus Christ. Get off your lazy ass and get the dead hookers out of there and you'll have a perfectly fine little shit hauler...

 

[smitty03]

Any advice on resurfacing an original wood floor? It was finished around 10 years ago, really just needs some maintenance. I am debating on whether I should rent a sander from Home Depot and do it myself to save money. Anyone have experience using them? The majority of the shoe trim could use a replacement, so tearing that off before is not a problem.

 

[Mac]

Any advice on resurfacing an original wood floor? It was finished around 10 years ago, really just needs some maintenance. I am debating on whether I should rent a sander from Home Depot and do it myself to save money. Anyone have experience using them? The majority of the shoe trim could use a replacement, so tearing that off before is not a problem.

Shouldn't be too difficult. Sand it down, stain, and top coat. Never done it myself, but have seen it done.

 

[Saw31]

Any advice on resurfacing an original wood floor? It was finished around 10 years ago, really just needs some maintenance. I am debating on whether I should rent a sander from Home Depot and do it myself to save money. Anyone have experience using them? The majority of the shoe trim could use a replacement, so tearing that off before is not a problem.

Rent a sander, but you'll still have to elbow grease the edges where the biggass sander can't get. Worth it in my imo because a well done hard wood floor is tits and ass...

 

[Best Buckeye]

Any advice on resurfacing an original wood floor? It was finished around 10 years ago, really just needs some maintenance. I am debating on whether I should rent a sander from Home Depot and do it myself to save money. Anyone have experience using them? The majority of the shoe trim could use a replacement, so tearing that off before is not a problem.

TOO MUCH ELBOW GREASE. take the base boards off and you can do the whole floor with the sander.
If you're not sure hire a local guy.

 

[BUCKYLE]

The sledgehammer method is what I used to get the others. The problem is the roots give me zero room to dig to either saw off the post or bust the concrete. I also tried using my wrecking bar like a chisel on the small area of concrete I could get at, but no luck so far.

Also, having been a 4-H/FFA kid, I have no problem with putting down some manure. The real dealbreaker on that is not wanting to haul it away in the trunk of my Chevy Cavalier.

Did you try getting on a ladder and hammering down on the top of the post? I've had plenty of success going that route. All depends on how much concrete is under the post.

 

[jwinslow]

We are replacing our inherited, rotten PT deck with a PT frame, cedar decking deck. A few details:
- 20x16', 5' elevation. PT framing/rails. cedar decking & handrails.

- 45 degree diagonal cedar deck boards, picture framed.

- bay window is an outcropping that hangs over the deck. The framing will attach to a flat wall.

1. We found a heat exhaust outcropping along/notched into the ledger board after tearing the deck down. Is this a problem? Do we need to build the framing above/below this? Re-route the exhaust vent?

2. Deck boards: 2x6 or 5/4 cedar? I have read conflicting reports on which will warp sooner. Also, are all 2x6 cedar deck boards fairly square and unrounded like their 5/4 counterparts?

3. What is your experience with concrete drying time? Code requires us to dig 32" holes and create concrete footers. We've read it will take 4-7 days to set and need to have it done before my father comes to visit to help us do the construction.

4. Undermounting - anyone have any experience with these? I'm interested in the CAMO system.

 

[Mac]

We are replacing our inherited, rotten PT deck with a PT frame, cedar decking deck. A few details:
- 20x16', 5' elevation. PT framing/rails. cedar decking & handrails.

- 45 degree diagonal cedar deck boards, picture framed.

- bay window is an outcropping that hangs over the deck. The framing will attach to a flat wall.

1. We found a heat exhaust outcropping along/notched into the ledger board after tearing the deck down. Is this a problem? Do we need to build the framing above/below this? Re-route the exhaust vent?

2. Deck boards: 2x6 or 5/4 cedar? I have read conflicting reports on which will warp sooner. Also, are all 2x6 cedar deck boards fairly square and unrounded like their 5/4 counterparts?

3. What is your experience with concrete drying time? Code requires us to dig 32" holes and create concrete footers. We've read it will take 4-7 days to set and need to have it done before my father comes to visit to help us do the construction.

4. Undermounting - anyone have any experience with these? I'm interested in the CAMO system.

I can't comment on 2 and 4.

1. It's not really a problem as long as the notch isn't compromising the integrity of the ledger board. When I think of ledger boards, I think of floor joists. They carry the weight over a span of length/area. If you notch the board, the joist, or in this case the ledger board, it can fail and compromise the structure. Hard to tell from the picture if the notch is large. If not, it's an aesthetic issue. If the notch is big, I'd move the vent.

3. The concrete doesn't need 4-7 days to set. I did my fence posts on Saturday, let it dry 24hrs. Constructed the rest of the fence Sunday. I personally would wait 2 days for the concrete to set. My posts were rock hard after 24hrs. And firmed up maybe a little more from Sunday to Monday.

Are you doing concrete footers with those brackets that tie into the bottom of your posts?

 

[jwinslow]

Thanks. The notch is small, I was concerned about condensation and warping from the exhaust.

We are doing concrete footers with posts on top of them. I don't recall the specifics on brackets. We are still finalizing the exact order with a few local lumber mills.

p.s. FYI, the guys at doityourself.com have been a good resource

 

[Mac]

Thanks. The notch is small, I was concerned about condensation and warping from the exhaust.

We are doing concrete footers with posts on top of them. I don't recall the specifics on brackets. We are still finalizing the exact order with a few local lumber mills.

p.s. FYI, the guys at doityourself.com have been a good resource

If you really wanted, you could construct some kind of diverter (some piece of metal that sits on top of the wood that shoots the exhaust out from the ledger) so that the heat from the exhaust isn't hitting the wood directly, but I don't think it would be a problem without.