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Home Repairs/HoneyDo List/Advice & Tips/etc.

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THEWOOD;2345309; said:
Well the built the deck in October/November of this past year. I am betting its ready because when it rains, water soaks in.
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FWIW, if they let the deck weather over the winter without any treatment, then I suggest a good sanding of the "white wood" prior to any products going down on it now.
 
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New deck, let it sit for a year to settle/dry/blead out. Then hit it with a stain or seal. It will seal/stain more consistently. If it's in a lot of shade you may choose just to go ahead and hit it.
 
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jwinslow;2346104; said:
We're building our deck next week. Most of the "experts" told us to wait a year before staining. Would you disagree, muff?
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Personally, I would wait until the brutality of summer is done, but before the seasonal variations of fall start to kick in. September comes to mind, if that works for your schedule.

Are you staining and clear-coating after installation or before? Reason I ask: if you want the best treatment possible, then you'll want to wait until after installation to do your clear coat. That way, the nails/screws aren't causing a defect in your film that allows penetration of the elements.
 
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Taosman;2346106; said:
New deck, let it sit for a year to settle/dry/blead out. Then hit it with a stain or seal. It will seal/stain more consistently. If it's in a lot of shade you may choose just to go ahead and hit it.
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To me, that's a long ways out, but it's not my area of expertise. I think about the amount of warping that can happen to wood in one year, and I just like to have some sort of assistance in making it more stable.

jwinslow;2346107; said:
Thanks, some silly kids on the internets were making me second guess myself. Southern-facing deck (little shade).
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By all means, go with what you're comfortable.

I should also note that I'm one for simplicity when it comes to decking and fencing. The weather's going to beat the shit out of it one way or another. Some solvent, some linseed oil, maybe some colorant and some drier... and you're ready to go. Just have to do it on a yearly basis. But it's cheap. :wink:
 
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Grass is coming up, even in the channel that I cut. I may re-seed in that area because it is a little patchy, but I'm glad to see that it didn't all wash away.

I'm glad we've had rain and not much real heat so far this month - I don't think it would be doing this well so far under normal June conditions.
 
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Just redid my mom's 10x10 deck this weekend at the old homestead in Ohio. Tore out all the deck boards and railing two weekends ago and then came back this last weekend and re-decked it, as well as, built new railings for it. Also added two new support posts sunk down in concrete with attached under deck support stringers.

Not bad to get done by my sorry old self in roughly two days, especially with all the storms coming through....lightning....what lightning....:biggrin:
 
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I have to rehang the door from the kitchen out to the garage. The frame is literally falling out of the wall into the garage. It's slipped out almost an inch over the last month or so to the point where I can see behind the drywall in my kitchen. Not excited about this project. :mad2:
 
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Mac;2350040; said:
Jwins, how's the deck going? Did you start yet?
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We finished the framing this afternoon. Now it's time to do the decking (w/ double picture framing and diagonals), railing & steps.

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The wife wasn't the best choice for holding down the boards to toenail them :lol:

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We switched roles for the others. My girth was much more effective :p

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buckeyebri;2350632; said:
I like that nice bump out to match the bay window. What are your plans for the railing support posts and how you are attaching them?
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Thanks. It will make the picture framing and decking more challenging but it should really tie in the angles of the house.

Next up is putting in the rail posts and blocking for the sides with parallel rim joists. My plan was to attach the 4x4 railing posts to the outside frame / joists. I was also planning to put in my blocking such that the rail posts could also attach to that. Then I was going to notch my outermost decking boards to accommodate the posts. There will be two (segmented) outside deck boards that run parallel to the edge of the deck.




Any suggestions?

Also a few of our treated joists have a noticeable crown and between the curve of the crown and the varying width of the joists, some of the long 16' joists curve down a 1/4 to 1/2 inch below level, almost exclusively out away from the deck where it is cantilevered. The beam is pretty uniform closer to the beams and house. I only see one beam that looks a little high and may need to be planed or ripped.

We bought a pack of shims and planned to screw those into place to fill in the gaps at the end. For the most part we are just fixing the last 18-24 inches furthest from the deck.
 
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