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- Thread starter wadc45
- Start date
Been renovating the main (non master bathroom). Went to put the new sink and vanity in Saturday and now it looks like I am in need of relocating the plumbing by about a foot to put it in.
Anyone used the new flex (Pex) plumbing material that is out and if so, how difficult is it to connect to the existing copper plumbing? It looks relatively easy on videos that I have watched.
Anyone used the new flex (Pex) plumbing material that is out and if so, how difficult is it to connect to the existing copper plumbing? It looks relatively easy on videos that I have watched.
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Saw31
High Seas Rogue
buckeyebri;2167995; said:
When I was researching this stuff, as long as you're not hiding it in a wall, you're good to go. It is easier to use, but also has a higher chance to leak (at the connection). But everyone said the stuff works well. Just don't put it in places you can't access easily in case it needs attention down the road...
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Buck Nasty
You'll have nothing and like it
buckeyebri;2167995; said:
dont overtighten the compression fittings and you will be fine.
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Ok, the bathroom remodel is pretty much done. It included rip out of the floor, vanity, and wall separating the bath/toilet and vanity area.
New is the vanity and mirror, tile floor, wall redo, toilet, and the piece de' resistance is the ceiling tiling. You can't see it in this picture, but the front and the back of the header with the ceiling tile is a nice stylish wood trim piece that we painted with a white enamel. In the entrance picture, you can see the laminate floor I am in the process of laying.
We wanted to take out the bath enclosure, but are saving that for later. I tiled the floor in a way to allow me to take it out and be able to make the future bath tile work.
New is the vanity and mirror, tile floor, wall redo, toilet, and the piece de' resistance is the ceiling tiling. You can't see it in this picture, but the front and the back of the header with the ceiling tile is a nice stylish wood trim piece that we painted with a white enamel. In the entrance picture, you can see the laminate floor I am in the process of laying.
We wanted to take out the bath enclosure, but are saving that for later. I tiled the floor in a way to allow me to take it out and be able to make the future bath tile work.
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Deety
Head Coach
Cool remodel.
The only house I've owned had a bathroom with stale-bubblegum pink tile, some with large flowers, that looked at least twenty years older than the house itself. I wish I'd had the time and money to replace it as I'd intended, because knowing it's still out there like that haunts me on dark and dreary nights.
The only house I've owned had a bathroom with stale-bubblegum pink tile, some with large flowers, that looked at least twenty years older than the house itself. I wish I'd had the time and money to replace it as I'd intended, because knowing it's still out there like that haunts me on dark and dreary nights.
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Thanks, I actually enjoy doing these things. This is the first time I have gotten a little fancy and did something different with adding in the color tiles for some accent. What really sucked is that the walls were kind of warped to begin with so that wasn't real fun to deal with.
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BuckeyeFlorida
Resident Science Dork
Mid-century teak dining room table
All-
The wife and I just acquired a mid-century teak dining room table and 6 chairs (covered in tweed) made by Scandinavia Woodworks Company from the in-laws. We've already broken down the chairs (removed the tweed fabric and old chair foam) and are starting to strip the old finish with an orbital sander (starting at 100 grit).
This is not my first project, but is the first time I've worked with teak. I didn't really do my homework on this one and realize now that I probably should not have stripped it all the way to wood or removed the original upholstery given the "vintage" value. Nonetheless, we're on our way now, so I need to think about how to re-finish the table and chairs, while my wife focuses on picking out fabric for the chairs. Have any of you worked with teak and/or can anyone provide advice on the best approach to re-finishing? Is teak oil the best? Tung oil? Should a top coat/sealant be used for an indoor table?
All-
The wife and I just acquired a mid-century teak dining room table and 6 chairs (covered in tweed) made by Scandinavia Woodworks Company from the in-laws. We've already broken down the chairs (removed the tweed fabric and old chair foam) and are starting to strip the old finish with an orbital sander (starting at 100 grit).
This is not my first project, but is the first time I've worked with teak. I didn't really do my homework on this one and realize now that I probably should not have stripped it all the way to wood or removed the original upholstery given the "vintage" value. Nonetheless, we're on our way now, so I need to think about how to re-finish the table and chairs, while my wife focuses on picking out fabric for the chairs. Have any of you worked with teak and/or can anyone provide advice on the best approach to re-finishing? Is teak oil the best? Tung oil? Should a top coat/sealant be used for an indoor table?
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muffler dragon
Bien. Bien chiludo.
BuckeyeFlorida;2192296; said:
I'm not certain if this stands true for weathered/aged substrate, but teak is an inherently oily wood as it is. Typically, when someone attempts to put some sort of coating on top of it, the first step is to apply an adhesive coating or tiecoat. The purpose is two-fold: 1) to lock in the natural oils and 2) to provide a means of adhesion for the coatings over top. This is also dependent upon the appearance that you are going for. You would use oils and things of that sort if you want an open grain, low to the substrate look. If you're looking for a full sheen, full build (think piano) type finish, then that changes the process. I realize this probably doesn 't help much, but it's something to think about when you go into a coatings store and ask the representative to point you in the proper direction. There are some Sherwin-Williams Stores that are a part of their Chemical Coatings division which will have people more knowledgeable, because they're dealing with OEM customers. Glidden Professional Stores should also be above in technical acumen. If you want me to assist further, then let me know what town you live in. I'll then get with a couple distributor sales people I know who can tell me where you should go to get the products you need and what types exactly. Just PM me.
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CleveBucks
Serenity now
Sounds like my guest bathroom project. Just found out I need to replace the shower valve because Kohler stopped making trim kits that will fit the old one.
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Mac;2197975; said:
Love the demo.....
Are you putting in the new shower floor yourself? Tile or prefab?
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