were you only in the major metros? Rome, Milan, Florence, Naples
or did you get a feel for the rurals?
I flew into Venice. During the weekdays, I was in Noale and Camposampiero. Each restaurant that I went into asked me for my Green Pass before seating me.
During my lone weekend, I went to Burano, Murano, Venice, and Padua. I was masked the entire time (except when vaping, eating, drinking) and was asked for my Green Pass at all restaurants. Shops didn't ask me for the Green Pass, but I made sure that my mask was covering my nose and mouth.
Actually, the only time I caught any flack was in airports, because my mask would periodically drop below my nose. However, that wasn't often.
So, I can't speak for many rural areas, but what I saw, wasn't problematic.
my family in rural parts of Calabria give me the impression they're pissed and somewhat petrified.. like Italy doesn't have a clue what they're doing... and distrust everything
I spent all of my time in the Veneto region. The company I went to visit has business worldwide. So, I can't say if they're a specific subset that just does what they have to do or if it's representative of the region.
I also didn't watch any Italian TV to determine how anything is presented. When I was walking around the cities, I saw relatively positive advertisements to get the 3rd shot (booster). As I understand it, Italy is at 90% vaccination rate. So, it appears that something has come through in the messaging.
As an aside that may or may not fit, it definitely appears that the testing facilities are very close to what I would call a racket. I had to get two antigen tests before I came back because the US requires results that are no greater than 24 hours. I was negative on each, but the first one cost 25 euro and the airport one cost 30 euro.
I would like to give a shout out of irritation for American Airlines, because they fucked me into the reason I had to get the second one.
Quick suggestion to anyone traveling abroad: if the situation arises where your return flights are cancelled and moved to another carrier, make sure you get the new airline's Reservation Code, because American Airlines won't tell you that it's needed nor provide it ahead of time. Couple that with tremendous wait times to talk with a representative, you will probably be sitting on hold while the ticket counter closes, and then you'll find yourself sitting in the first airport for 14 hours while waiting for next flight and returning home a day later.
Nonetheless, made it home.