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Home Repairs/HoneyDo List/Advice & Tips/etc.

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BuckeyeMac;2102873; said:
Moving my buckeye room downstairs. Having to paint dark wood white, I'm getting some brown spots/streaks through the white paint, even after primer and two coats
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Did you scuff the dark paint with some sand paper or such? Could be the gloss from the original paint. Could also be grease/oils/dirt/etc.
 
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BuckeyeMac;2102890; said:
Yup sure did. It's doing it on the window trim, but not on baseboards which had a smoother finish
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Hmm. Strange. Not sure what would be doing that. Is there maybe some stray caulking or adhesives around the window? Kids with crayons drawing on them? It sounds like something is on there, waxes, oils, adhesive residue or some such. That's not normal for sure...
 
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I used Killz primer, I think it's water based. FWIW, the wood looks like its old, maybe from the 70's when the house was built. It didn't exactly have a smooth finish, but wasn't like 60grit sandpaper. Maybe like a 250 grit
 
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BuckeyeMac;2102915; said:
I used Killz primer, I think it's water based. FWIW, the wood looks like its old, maybe from the 70's when the house was built. It didn't exactly have a smooth finish, but wasn't like 60grit sandpaper. Maybe like a 250 grit
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Kilz is usually pretty good shit. I would never recommend going below 180-grit (lower meaning in number, not actually grit size) when attemptingt to scuff up already existing paint. Considering you're talking about window sills and such (instead of baseboards), it sounds like you're dealing with a lot of contaminants. Give it a solid with 180 to 220 grit sand PAPER (not the blocks as you need to get in all the grooves). Then brush some solvent borne primer on there. I know the odor may be an issue, but it will coat problem areas better as well as insulate against anything that may be in the substrate. This is one reason why they suggest you do this in rooms where someone smoked as well. The solventborne primers are better suited at holding shit in that you don't want out. And, I hate to say it, but how old is the house and the pieces you're painting? If you're looking at pre mid-60s or so, then you'll have to check about lead-based paint before sanding. Then you'll just have to make sure you have proper ventilation/vacuuming with the dust from sanding.
 
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I meant that the wood felt like a 200-250 grit price of sandpaper. I'm using 180 to sand baseboards, corner trim, window trim, etc.

The brown spots are more of a light tan showing through. At this point I may say screw it and put one more coat on, and wash my hands of it.

Would spray paint cover it better?
 
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Kilz makes both solvent based and (Kilz2) latex primer. I've never had a problem with Kilz2, but regular Kilz should kick just about anything's ass. Beware the fumes though. I've been unable to say my own name after primering a closet with Kilz. Good stuff. :lol:
 
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BuckeyeMac;2102938; said:
I meant that the wood felt like a 200-250 grit price of sandpaper. I'm using 180 to sand baseboards, corner trim, window trim, etc.
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Got'cha.

The brown spots are more of a light tan showing through. At this point I may say screw it and put one more coat on, and wash my hands of it.

Would spray paint cover it better?
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Typically, no, because spray viscosity requires a reduction in the resin solids of the coating whereas a brushable tends to have more because it's thicker. Additionally, because it's thicker, the paint doesn't tend to pull away from the areas of contamination as quickly/easily. I still recommend that you get a solvent based coating if you want to one shot it and be done. You can still use waterborne over top of the solvent based when it's dried (FYI).
 
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Another tangential note for you, Mac. When thinking of the gloss/sheen of a paint that you want to use, remember that the higher the gloss the MORE RESIN you have in the paint. Which makes it more resistant to issues. This is particularly poignant in bathrooms and some kitchen areas. And stay the hell away from FLATS as they're worthless as TOAB.
 
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