I love Savannah! As Grad said, the Bonaventure Cemetery just outside of Savannah in Thunderbolt is a cool place to take a stroll. I took some pics with my iPhone last time we were down there this past summer:
You can spend a long afternoon just strolling through the many city parks in the downtown historical area. The Savannah College of Art and Design has a pretty cool
museum, and the city itself has several other museums that are worth visiting, including the
Telfair Museum.
As far as food, I've been to Paula Deen's and I would skip it and go to the place she ripped off instead.
Miss Wilkes' Dinning Room, open only for lunch, serves up the best Southern food I've ever had. Expect to wait in line for 45 minutes or an hour, but it is sooo worth it. You'll be seated at a large table full of other people who you can chat with and the food is served family style. Butter beans, red rice, okra, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, greens, etc. etc. etc. It all sits on the table and you continue to eat until you no longer can. Meanwhile, fantastic fried chicken and one other main dish will be sent to your table as it is prepared. You can't miss this!
If you want a really fine dining experience, the two best options are
The Olde Pink House and
Elizabeth's on 37th. Both are outstanding, though not cheap.
Make sure you go to
Leopold's Ice Cream, an old school ice cream parlor, for some desert.
Other places that I would recommend for food at which I've eaten or read good reviews include
Soho South Cafe (lots of local art on the walls and an eclectic setting),
Crystal Beer Parlor for good pub fare,
Alligator Soul,
Nobel Fare (we keep missing this place but some seem to think it is the best deal in town for a really good meal),
Local Eleven Ten (we had a good meal here last time--set in an old bank just off the southern edge of Forsyth Park, it also has a roof deck that is supposed to be a good place to get drinks), and
Masada Cafe (actually a cafeteria in a local church that apparently has great Southern food).
I actually tend to avoid the riverfront because it feels very touristy to me. I do like the setting at the
Moon River Brewing Company, though. Their beer is just OK, but it's a pretty nice place to have a pint and they sometimes have live blues, jazz, brass bands, etc.
Of all those places, Miss Wilkes' Dinning Room is the one you absolutely must visit. Enjoy! Savannah is one of the Southern cities in which I'd gladly take up residence.