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DubCoffman62

Lazy Slob
The D: drive works perfectly, I have all the latest updates, plays dvds, cds and everything else it's supposed to do but it won't burn cds. I've tried using 3 or 4 different programs and none work. Any ideas?
It worked well in the past, it started out cutting some songs off in the middle occasionally, then it would emit whole songs and now it gives me an error message that leads to a windows support page that is no help.
 
DubCoffman62;1596373; said:
It worked well in the past, it started out cutting some songs off in the middle occasionally, then it would emit whole songs and now it gives me an error message that leads to a windows support page that is no help.

Sounds like a hardware rather than software problem.

Clean the laser lens. If that doesn't work spend the $5 to get a new CD/DVD burner.

---Just to be sure though, try the following:

Rright click on the drive icon & select "properties".
Is there a tab on the far right that says "recording"?
If not your machine may not recognize your drive as a recordable device. If that's the case there's a registry hack to fix it.
 
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OCBucksFan;1597015; said:
Burners die, over the years I have had many a burner able to read and function as a cd rom but after time wasn't able to burn any longer. [censored] happens, they are cheap.
No problem buying a new one I just want to be sure what the problem is before I start fixing stuff that doesn't need fixing. The thing is it's only about 6 months old. My old computer's burner lasted the 4 years I had it.
 
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Muck;1596906; said:
Sounds like a hardware rather than software problem.

Clean the laser lens. If that doesn't work spend the $5 to get a new CD/DVD burner.

---Just to be sure though, try the following:

Rright click on the drive icon & select "properties".
Is there a tab on the far right that says "recording"?
If not your machine may not recognize your drive as a recordable device. If that's the case there's a registry hack to fix it.
I tried this, it didn't work
I know How to fix it follow these instructions
-Click Start
-In the search bar type "regedit"
-Click on it, it kinda looks like a broken up cube
-When open Click on "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE"
-Then "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM"
-then "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001"
-then "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control"
-Then "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Class"
-then CLICK ON DONT EXPAND
"HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Class\{4D36E967-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}"
-If you see "LowerFilters" right click on it and then "Delete" confirm on deleting it
-Than find "UpperFilters" right click on it and then say "Modify..."
-Find the text box and type this value in "GEARAspiWDM"
-Press "Ok"
-Close everything and Restart your computer
 
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CD Burners have either two lasers (sometimes even three) or a single multi-phase laser. The write laser is far more powerful than the read laser; it actually melts the green dye on the writeable surface to make bits non-reflective. It's not uncommon for one laser in a multi-function drive to go out.

I'd chuck it and just buy a new one from NewEgg. A good Sony or Pioneer brand DVD-RW/CD-RW combo drive shouldn't be more than $30-35, just make certain you order the appropriate replacement (SATA or IDE).
 
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Taosman;1597064; said:
After you sort your burner issue.
If your working on better sound from your CDs, try Memorex Black CD-Rs. (WalMart or Amazon.com)
And burn at your slowest speed. Software to try would be Exact Audio Copy. It's a a free program.
Introduction ? Exact Audio Copy
Any recordable CD that the burner supports will work fine. It's a non-contact digital medium, therefore Memorex's 0s and 1s do not, and physically cannot, sound any different from anybody elses 0s and 1s. Suggesting such is as stupid as saying mp3s on a iPod sound better than mp3s on a Zune. To take it further, some CD players cannot even read the Memorex black CD anyway.

Also, Memorex doesn't press their own discs, they are produced out of four or five different factories. If you're buying Memorex, you should make sure you get the Tayio Yuden-made product. The packaging will literally read, "Made in Japan," as opposed to "Made in China" or "Made in Taiwan."

The Memorex TY-made products are typically superior with QC and consistency.
 
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Well I've found a temporary solution. My wife had a Mad Dog multimedia burner in the closet and I've manged to burn with that. I had to disable my D: drive but no biggie, I can always enable it. I'll probably buy a new burner eventually but the problem with that it that whenever I start messing with computers I start out with 50 pieces and when I put things back together I only have 47 pieces and then my yells at me for not finding someone who knows what the hell they're doing to help me and so on.
 
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Dryden;1597608; said:
Any recordable CD that the burner supports will work fine.

Not always. Poorly pressed media can radically increase the number of coasters (rather than listenable CDs) you're producing.

...but once the data is on the media, yeah it sounds the same.

Dryden;1597608; said:
Suggesting such is as stupid as saying mp3s on a iPod sound better than mp3s on a Zune.

Are you making the claim that all DACs sound exactly the same?

There are plenty of things that happens between the data being read & it being turned into sound waves that can affect it's sound. MP3 players don't all sound the same anymore than all home hifi systems sound the same.
 
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Muck;1597762; said:
Are you making the claim that all DACs sound exactly the same?
No, of course not. Regardless, in the realm of compressed digital music, how you compress is far more significant than how you decompress. In any event, you're taking my post out of context and picking nits. What I am saying is that, all other things being equal, suggesting the storage media itself effects the sound quality because of the brand name is moronic. It's a placebo.

If I took a factory pressed retail audio compact disc and duplicated it to 10 different CD-Rs, provided the write doesn't fail, a person could not discern the difference between the recording quality of any of them. It's physically impossible because it's digital. It's either a 0, a 1, or a beverage coaster.
 
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Dryden;1597786; said:
No, of course not. Regardless, in the realm of compressed digital music, how you compress is far more significant than how you decompress. In any event, you're taking my post out of context and picking nits. What I am saying is that, all other things being equal, suggesting the storage media itself effects the sound quality because of the brand name is moronic. It's a placebo.

If I took a factory pressed retail audio compact disc and duplicated it to 10 different CD-Rs, provided the write doesn't fail, a person could not discern the difference between the recording quality of any of them. It's physically impossible because it's digital. It's either a 0, a 1, or a beverage coaster.
It's been my experience that all blank cds sound the same but some last longer and some are of better quality. I bought a cheap brand of memorex blanks once that produced many coasters simply because my burner would reject them. It all has to do with the quality of the recording. A quality recording sounds good on any cd.
 
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