Beer in the Headlights
Sales are flat. Wine is ascendant. How did this happen?
By Field Maloney
Posted Wednesday, May 30, 2007, at 6:19 PM ET
Last year, a grainy
video appeared on YouTube. In the clip, three scraggly-looking men in a scraggly yard shoot full cans of Milwaukee's Best Light beer out of a homemade cannon. They shoot at a bottle of what they call "fancy-pants wine," which they've placed at the bull's-eye of a giant white target. On their first shot, they miss. The second shot sends green glass and red wine flying, in the kind of glorious mess that would please Jackson Pollock. The men hoot.
As it happens, the video was made by a beer company?SABMiller, which owns Milwaukee's Best?and while it plays class warfare for laughs, it also represents the ultimate fantasy of American beer executives, who have been jittery for years. For one thing, wine consumption in this country has nearly doubled in the last decade, while beer sales have been pretty much stagnant, growing less than 1 percent since 2000. Even more galling, in 2005 a Gallup poll revealed that, for the first time ever,
Americans preferred wine to beer. This was an astonishing development, akin to Americans jilting baseball for bocce.